Kathmandu // Upper Mustang - Lo Manthang // May 2023
"Hey Magda, what are you doing at the end of May? Do you like to take part in another Steller* adventure?This time we're going to Nepal!" A quick glance at the calendar, "sure I'm in!"
On May 23rd I am standing at the airport in Bergamo with my suitcases packed, my plane ticket says "Kathmandu, Nepal". A country I have heard so much about, the landscape, the mountains, the culture - I am very much looking forward to it! The trip goes smoothly and after one day I land in Kathmandu.
The visa in Nepal can be easily applied for via an online application in advance or directly at the airport. For 14 days I pay about 30 dollars. I also get a sim card so I don't always have to rely on wifi connection and I would recommend getting one. This also takes only a few minutes and after a short time I find myself in the taxi towards the hotel. The streets are dusty and honking, traffic rules seem to be different here, or rather non-existent... I am glad that I am sitting on the passenger seat. After dinner I fall tired into bed, the hotel were I am staying at is called Aloft Kathmandu Thamel, a nice hotel, often booked by Western mountaineers.
Good morning Kathmandu! From my hotel room I have a wonderful view of downtown Kathmandu. After a good breakfast I make my way into the city. But I don't get far, only a few meters from the hotel I discover a small climbing gym. Since I had already heard that you can climb here, I brought my climbing shoes - and of course I will use them right away! It feels good to do a few climbing moves after yesterday's travel day, even if the word "climbing gym" is perhaps a bit exaggerated, it is probably more a wall with a few holds, but that's enough ;) After a shower, it finally goes into the city and I must say, even as a woman I feel comfortable to stroll through the streets. In the tourist zone of Thamel I should not worry, I was told, and I can confirm that. However, a certain amount of caution is always advised. If you are looking for nice souvenirs, Thamel is also the right address. Here the stores are close together and I quickly find something nice to take home. Especially popular souvenirs are: Prayer flags, pashmina, singing bowls, Nepalese jewelry, thangka paintings, art objects, tea and spices. If you want to buy high quality, make sure you know where you want to spend your money on beforehand, or ask a local guide. Shopping makes you hungry as we all know and in Nepal you can enjoy excellent food, especially if you like spices like me :)
After a few days in Kathmandu, a short domestic flight will take us to Pokhara on Lake Phewa in central Nepal. The city is known as the starting point for the Annapurna Circuit and has a lot to offer for adventure seekers: Trekking, bungee jumping, paragliding (attention only tandem! If you want to fly yourself, you should inform yourself carefully beforehand and possibly get a permit. I sadly was not allowed to fly with my paraglider).
Jomsom, Mustang region
After a short stay in Pokhara, the next morning we take a small plane to Jomsom in the Mustang region. The flight itself is spectacular and we get to see some giants of the Himalayas. Jomsom is located at an altitude of 2,700 meters and the towering peaks of Dhaulagiri and Nilgiri form the backdrop to the town. Once considered a transit point for a busy trade route for Hindu and Buddhist pilgrims, Jomsom is now a popular destination for trekkers. Tip: Be sure to stop at the Himalayan Java Gallery Cafe for breakfast or coffee. You don't get such a good coffee with such a view twice ;)
After a hearty breakfast and maybe also two coffees, we load up the jeeps that are already waiting for us: In the next few days we will make our way to Lo Manthang, the "forgotten kingdom".
The Mustang region is located in the far north of Nepal behind the Dhaulagiri and Annapurna mountain ranges and extends into the Tibetan plateau. It is considered one of the most remote areas of Nepal and was only opened to tourism in 1992. The former kingdom of Lo Manthang dates back to the 14th century and culturally belongs to Tibet. For a long time the kingdom was completely isolated from Nepal, but closely connected with the caravans of the salt trade from Tibet to Nepal and India. Therefore, here the traditional Tibetan culture is so well preserved and original as almost nowhere else in the world. Even today the access for tourists is limited, to visit the region of the Upper Mustang a special permit from the Nepalese immigration office is necessary, for which you have to pay 500 US dollars for 10 days.
So we set out on the multi-day journey, from Jomsom north to the Upper Mustang region. Our guide explains to us that the gorge here is the deepest in the world with an altitude difference of 4000m. The landscape is really impressive, from the snow-capped mountains of the Himalayas, desert-like landscapes, to the oases where agriculture is practiced: among other things, apples, buckwheat and potatoes are grown here. Life here is very simple, people live mainly from what is grown here. The traditional dish dal bhat (lentils and rice) is served daily, and momos (steamed dumplings) should also be tried at least once. By the way, did you know that the Nepalese traditionally eat with their hands?
The journey by jeep is bumpy, the roads are of course far from our standard. The views though! The dimensions here are just different from what my eyes are used to, everything is much bigger: the mountains, the valleys, the canyons. Even the wind! It is a constant companion during the day, sweeping powerfully through the wide valley. I am particularly impressed by the friendliness of the people here. Everywhere we are warmly welcomed, try to exchange a few words, but mostly it remains with communication through gestures. The people make a satisfied impression on me, life seems to be reduced to the essentials here. With the increasingly covered meters also the height increases on which we are, up to nearly 4000 meters height we come here.
On the second day then also the Annapurna shows up, which is with its 8,091 meters the tenth-highest mountain of the world. I imagine how tiny a climber is on this mountain, a dot that you can probably only see with an expensive binocular.
With the jeep we drive over several passes, passing small villages, the only green spots in a mostly dry and barren landscape, bizarre orange rock formations, monasteries and former meditation caves. And finally we reach Lo Manthang!
Lo Manthang is the capital of the Upper Mustang region and borders the Tibet Autonomous Region of China to the north. Arrived, you immediately feel that this is a very special place. Tourists we see almost none, but many friendly locals, especially elders, who pursue their activities: Repairing and building houses, taking care of the animals, women washing and knitting, clergymen, painters re-painting the paintings in the monasteries to preserve them... It is late afternoon and we are given a guided tour of the village, whose appearance is characterized by whitewashed mud brick walls, gompas and the 600 year old royal palace. The sun is low in the sky and bathes the village in a warm light. There is an incredible amount of culture and spirituality here, and it really does seem like tourism has had almost no impact here. A trip to Mustang feels as if you are still in another world here, far away from our highly modern and stressful everyday life. I am very grateful to be able to experience this place in this untouched version.
Good to know Nepal trip
Nepal is the land of Mount Everest and high mountains, where especially mountaineers and trekking travelers get their money's worth, but not only! The country is incredibly diverse, so you can go on safaris and discover the wildlife in Chitwan National Park, cultural places and also get to know the birthplace of Buddha. Those who like to see mountains but don't like to hike can book sightseeing flights or jeep safaris, relax and unwind in one of the fantastic hotels (below you will find a list of recommended resorts), practice yoga, consult an Ayurveda doctor and maybe attend a meditation course. And for those who enjoy walking, there are of course endless options for trekking trips or even climbing a major peak.
Hotel recommendations
Hotels I visited during my Nepal trip with Steller and can recommend:
Aloft Hotel Kathmandu, Thamel
Sarangkot Mountain Lodge, Pokhara
Yak & Yeti, Kathmandu
Dwarikas Resort Dhulikhel, Kathmandu (pictures below)
The Nanee Bhaktapu, Kathmandu
*Steller is an American travel agency and online platform that allows travelers to discover, connect and book experiences shared with their favorite Creators. In collaboration with tourism destinations worldwide, Steller organizes trips to promote these countries and invites a handful of Creators to do so. And like this I was invited by Steller to travel to Nepal.
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